Thursday, July 31, 2008

History of Ganja

History of Ganja

A monument of the ancient culture, the native land of the great Nizami - the town of Ganja is located on the northeast bottom of Small Caucasus, on Ganja-Gazakh lowland, on both banks of Ganjachay River. This town, which has played a large role in social-economic, political and cultural life of Azerbaijan, was on caravan crossroads, where the travelers stopped, and enjoyed conversations with foreign scientists. Looking through the pages of its rich history, in each line, we meet traces of ancient town, we hear its voice and we feel its breath. There are various points of view about the history of formation of Ganja as a town. Some scientists consider the foundation of town to the period BC, majority - to the beginning of the Middle Ages.

Speaking about the history of town it is impossible to overlook, that it formed as the social-economic and cultural center. Ganja, as well as other cities of Azerbaijan (Kabala, Nakhichevan, Sheki, Shemakha), is considered as a settlement, which had a favorable geographical arrangement and gradually passed in a town. Mausoleum of Dzhomard Gassab (Gassab - a butcher), can be considered as one of the certificates of the age of Ganja. Dzhomard Gassab lived during governing of the fourth khalif Ali ibn Abutalib (656-661) and distinguished with his validity and honesty. In the times when the population of the town professed idols he secretly accepted Islam. The fact that someone could change his opinions and belief secretly, speaks that in VII century there was a strong political authority and influential clergy in Ganja.
Even in 1940 - ties, in time of archeological excavations, the researchers came in such conclusion, that there were settlements in territory of Ganja still BC. There are different opinions in interpretation of word "Ganja". "Dzhanza" - in Arabic, "Gandza" - in Georgian, in Pehlevi it designated - treasure, place of storage of a crop. All of these interpretations have no scientific basis. According Resler, this term is inherent in the Azerbaijan language. In the other reason it is marked, that the given term has connections with a tribe of Ganjak, which is closer to true. There are scientific proofs that the tribe existed. A number of places in Azerbaijan and Central Asia have connections to the name of the tribe. The historians of Central Asia challenge and prove, that they originate from the tribe. In first half of VII century Persians destroyed Ganja, and in second half Arabs did the same. In the end of VII century, the town was an arena of fights between the Arabs and Khazars. In "Derbendname" it is marked, that in the beginning of VII century and in VIII century. The territory of Azerbaijan repeatedly was exposed to attacks, therefore considerably has suffered and Ganja. After Barda, the capital of Arran, Ganja begins to play the important role in international trade, caravans frequently stopped here. There were Arabian dinars and dirkhams in circulation. Since X century, when Barda loses its role of a capital, Ganja begins to play the important role in social-economic and cultural life of the country. Trade and craft occupy the important place in the life of the town. There is an economic potential for development of craft. Iron, copper, aluminum and other mines, which are taking place near Ganja, supplied the handicraftsmen with raw material. In process of formation, Ganja, as the capital of the country, gave the special attention also to strengthening of military power of town. There were fortress walls constructed and ditches dug around the town in this period.
The rests of Ganja fortress, being majestic at its times, are embodied in this photo. The angular tower of the fortress is visible in the foreground; the other tower is in about 600 meters distance (marked with red arrow). This wall passes along the bank of the river Ganjachay. Being a natural barrier at one time, now the river constantly undermines the shabby walls of the fortress. Because of easing of the khalifat in IX-X centuries, independent feudal states of Shirvanshakhs, Sadjadids, Salaridids, and Raevadits began to occur in Azerbaijan. In the middle of Х century, Ganja was in the hands of the state of Salaradids. Later it became the capital of the state of Shaddadids. During the reign of Fadlun I (895-1030), Ganja got stronger even more. The Shaddadids constructed fortress, palaces, bridges, and caravansaries here and began to mint money. There was a newer and stronger fortress constructed around the town.
In 1063, the smith Ibragim has made famous gates of Ganja. In process of transformation of Ganja to the large center, its territory extended also: the new commercial and industrial quarters were under construction. Silk and the silk products have won sympathies of not only local, but also foreign buyers. Ganja was as a religious center too. Therefore, the residence Albanian katalikost changed from Barda to Ganja. Gatran Tebrizi wrote about this period: "Now Ganja has changed into a paradise " In the middle of ХI century Azerbaijan has undergone to invasions of Seljuk. After the capture of Tebriz Togrul I (1038-1068) in 1054 moved his army towards Ganja . The ruler of Ganja Shavir has agreed to become Togrul’s vassal. He has presented Togrul an expensive gift and ordered a khutba to read in his honor.
The invasions of Seljuks did not stop. In 70 years of XI century Fadlun III, the governor of Shaddads, seeing senselessness of war, has surrendered, however a bit later, having taken advantage the convenient moment, again has returned to authority. In 1086 Seljuk governor Malik shah (1072-1092) has sent the commander Bugay to Ganja. Despite of strong resistance of the local population, the Seljuks have grasped town. During war, the governor of Ganja Fadlun III was imprisoned and more than 100 years the reign of the Shaddadid dynasty was fixed. Malik shah has assigned the governing of Ganja to his son Gias ad-din Tapar. Gias ad-din Mukhammed Tapar, even after his election as a sultan (1105-1117), still remained one of the basic residents of Seljuk governors of Ganja. In the first half of XII century Ganja some times was exposed to Georgian invasions, in reply to it Seljuk army have intruded Georgia and have plundered it.

Other event connected with Ganja, was an earthquake of huge force, which has taken place on September 25, 1139. Kirakos Gandzaketsi wrote: " … the fog and clouds wrapped the mountains and the plains, an awful earthquake has taken place. Ganja has collapsed … As a result of it Kapazdag mountain has collapsed and has fallen on springs, which flew down ravines, having blocked them a way. So the lake was formed”. The lake Gek-gol (Gek- blue, gol-lake) in the present time is in territory of the same reserve and is one of the most picturesque places of Azerbaijan. But the author forgot to mention or did not know that time about other seven lakes formed as a result of this earthquake and also distinguished by the rare beauty. They are - Maral-gol, Dzhehran-gol,Ordek-gol, Zalugolu, Aggol, Garagol and Shamligol.
Having taken advantage of the destruction of the town and absence of the governor of town, the Georgian feudal lords have made invasion, have grasped many trophies and have taken away with itself famous gates of Ganja. The rests of this monument of material culture of Azerbaijan, because of miscontrol and unsuitable condition, are in a courtyard of Gelat monastery of the Georgian Republic. Long internal feudal wars have weakened the Seljuk state. It has created conditions for strengthening of the local feudal lords and occurrence of the new states. One of them was the state of Atabeks, founded by Shamsaddin Eldaniz. Ganja became a residence of this state in Arran. The beginning of XII-XIII centuries could be named as the period of bloom of Ganja - the second capital of the state of Atabeks, for that its products were known far outside the country, it has risen up to a level " the mother of Arran cities". A fabric, which was produced here and referred to as " Ganja silk ", has received a high estimation in the markets of the neighboring countries and the Middle East.
Agriculture, gardening and cattle breeding have received wide development simultaneously with craft in Ganja. An unknown author in his work "Adjaib ad-dunya" wrote, that this richly occupied large metropolitan city of Arran was surrounded with powerfully strengthened fortress walls. Whole Ganja was in greens. There were a large variety of fruits in here. The atlas, fabrics, cotton, silk and other goods were taken out to other cities. The population was courageous and shoot bows well enough.


In the specified period Ganja played the important role in cultural development of Azerbaijan. Many scientists and poets, whose products have won the worldwide recognition, were born and lived in this city.



It is necessary to note creativity of Mahsati Ganjavi . She was very much-gifted poetess of the time, having respect and authority of the people. The ingenious Azerbaijan poet Nizami Ganjavi, who has the worldwide recognition, lived and created in Ganja in this period. His "Khamsa" is one of rare pearls of a treasury of the world literature. J.E. Bertels wrote:" Nizami has immortally won the recognition of mankind by divine magic of his spirit ".

In the beginning of ХIII century Azerbaijan was exposed to invasions of the Mongols. They were rendered with strong resistance everywhere. During the first invasion in Azerbaijan (1220) they could not grasp Ganja, which was well strengthened and resisted to the enemy. In 1225 Azerbaijan has undergone to invasion of Dzhalaladdin, who has grasped Azerbaijan cities one after another, including Ganja. And it fixed the end to the state of Atabeks. Dzhalaladdin's governors behaved outrageously, demanded large taxes. In 1231 all this became an occasion of revolt of the Ganja population against foreign invaders. The rebels, having destroyed the palace of the governor of city, killed the servants and have compelled the rich men to pay taxes for deprived within several months. This revolt was suppressed. The head of the rebels a handicraftsman Bender and 30 active participants were executed. In 1231 the Mongols, having surrounded the city, met strong resistance of the local population. Despite of it, the invaders occupied, plundered the city and have subjected the population to severe punishment. The city was not restored for a long time. The sanction for its restoration was received only in 1235.

Since the middle of ХIII century Azerbaijan have been entered into structure of the state of Khulaguids, which was ruled by Khulagu khan (1256-1265). In the 80-ties Azerbaijan was subjected to an attack of Amir Teymur. The country has turned to arena of struggle between Teymur and Tokhtamish. During Teymur's invasions to Georgia Ganja played a role of military station. Teymur's campaign on Azerbaijan has brought the large disasters. In the beginning of XVI century a new state of Sefevids has appeared. Ganja was one of beklarbekliks (province), included in structure of the state founded by Shakh Ismail Khatai. With the assignment of the sultan Shakhverdi as the first beklarbek (ruler) of Ganja, a long domination of the representatives of a new dynasty of Ziad ogly from the tribe of Kadjars began in Ganja and Karabakh. It's this period when Imamzade was built.

Ganja, which again occupied one of conducting places in trade of Transcaucasia, supported close contacts to Russia, countries of Near East and Europe. According to one of the historical sources, there were more than 50 thousand facilities (225 000 population) in Ganja. Temporary reduction of military actions and expansion of trade communications have influenced revival and development of economic life of Ganja and other cities. The Turkish traveller Evliya Chelebi marked, that in this period there were 6000 houses in Ganja and all of them had gardens. Especially he emphasised the development of silk industry. The Osmans were disturbed very much with the gain of Caspian areas by Russia. In 1723 they have taken Ganja in siege, however failed to occupy the city.
It has disturbed the government of Iran. Nadir shah, who stood in the chapter of the Iranian army, has put before himself the purpose exile Russians and Turks from Azerbaijan and to transform it in an occupied zone. According to the conditions of a contract signed between Russia and Iran near Ganja in March 1735, the Russian government has removed its armies from Caspian provinces. Nadir shah's policy in Azerbaijan has subjected the population to complete ruin, became the reason of its poverty. The murder of the shah in 1747 has strengthened aspiration to even more independence, and was finished by occurrence of separate feudal governments - khanlygs. One of the khanlygs, arisen in the middle of Х\/III century was Ganja khanlygy. A representative of the dynasty of Ziadogly, which have ruled in Ganja for a long period of time, Shakhverdi khan (1740-1756) became the khan of Ganja. Ganja became the centre of the khanlyg. In the 80-ties years of Х\/III century during the government of Dzhavad khan (1785-1804), Ganja khanlygy considerably has become stronger. It carried out independent external policy. The khanlyg had it's own monetary courtyard in Ganja. In this period imperial Russia, protecting interests of aristocracy, nobility, landowners and merchants, in its turn, tried to grasp new grounds, to expand the markets of selling. In this respect imperial Russia gave the large importance to Azerbaijan because of its strategic and economic situation.
Taking into account a good site of the Ganja khanlygy, the territory could be used as stronghold of army for association other khanlygs of Azerbaijan. The command of Russian army considered Ganja " as a key to northern provinces of Iran ". General wrote, that Ganja fortress because of a favorable geographical situation occupied the important place in Azerbaijan and consequently a paramount task of Russia was to capture this fortress.


Tsitsianov several times addressed to Dzhavad khan to surrender voluntary and each time received refusal. In November 20, 1803 he directed through Tiflis with his army towards Ganja, in December he come nearer to the fortress. Having understood, that it would be difficult to possess it, after certain preparations, on January 3, 1804 at 5 o'clock in the morning he gave the order to attack the fortress. After fierce fights they have grasped the city. Dzhavad khan was killed. Ganja was renamed in Elizavetpol in honour of Alexander's wife Elizaveta. In 1805 the imperial government officially has entered commandant method of ruling. From now on all military, property and financial authority was concentrated in hands of a commandant. In 1806 a district court was created in Ganja. In 1824 a police department was created, with the purpose of strengthening of the control above the population of city, in Ganja. This department and its methods of government dissatisfied the population. The commandant system was liquidated in 1840. Ganja was entered in the structure of Georgian-Imereti province as a district and there was founded a post of the head of district. Elizavetpol province was founded in 1868. Ganja became the capital of Elizavetpol province. The arrangement of Ganja on a crossroads of caravan ways to Baku - Tiflis created conditions for communications with shopping centres of Transcaucasia and large centres of East. In first half of the ХIХ century a revival in cultural life of Ganja was observed. During centuries in spiritual schools and madrasa pupils were acquainted with classical east literature. However the spiritual schools, madrasa had no clear educational programs. Actually at this period Mirza Shafi Vazeh - famous poetry and teacher, author of first school-book study in Ganja. In madrasa, near the Juma mosque , 100 pupils were trained. In 1833 district schools were open in Ganja. In 1833 38 pupils were trained here, at the end of 50-ties the number rose up to 100. In the middle of ХIХ century special schools began to work in Ganja and in 1860 198 men were trained there. Only 18 schoolgirls received education at sole female school. In the middle of 60-ties 981 men were educated in Ganja schools.

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